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Difference between revisions of "Taking Pictures with Different Cameras"
Taking Pictures with Different Cameras (view source)
Revision as of 21:46, 16 September 2023
, 21:46, 16 September 2023→Camera applications
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*Tripods and stands | *Tripods and stands | ||
*Lenses, magnification (X or zoom factor) | *Lenses, magnification (X or zoom factor) | ||
*Wide angle/Narrow angle shots | |||
*Image formats | |||
*Aspect ratio | |||
*Auto exposure | *Auto exposure | ||
*Auto focus | *Auto focus | ||
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<code>''Remember that the way you orient your camera most of the time is landscape or horizontal. It is good to know that there are other orientations, such as a portrait one, and it is advisable to experiment with multiple orientations and taking pictures at various distances from the subject, as this offers more opportunities on editing.''</code> | <code>''Remember that the way you orient your camera most of the time is landscape or horizontal. It is good to know that there are other orientations, such as a portrait one, and it is advisable to experiment with multiple orientations and taking pictures at various distances from the subject, as this offers more opportunities on editing.''</code> | ||
== Photo sessions == | |||
It may seem all too obvious how you should take a photo, however, to the best of my judgement, I made a list of quick suggestions to apply while the remainder of the page shows the reasoning behind them in particular details. This should ensure you take at least above average shots, when given the opportunity. Always keep in mind that a session could get longer or shorter, depending on context, and you need to agree in advance with your subject, if this applies. Never rush a session or have one when exhausted, the risk of ruining such an opportunity is too high. | |||
Avoid considering a good photo as being the result of simply pointing the camera and creating a lasting memory. Great shots require at least a degree of planning that takes 5-10 seconds in the least. Always consider how much the subject is able to cope with such requirements and avoid needlessly exhausting him or her when you are just testing various approaches. Require undivided attention only after the final preparation stage. Avoid too much experimentation with poses and shooting techniques unless there is a broad agreement with the subject, a shooting session is exhausting and your subject may have to experience more on the same day. Acting kindly and understanding matters a lot. | |||
=== Advanced preparations === | |||
Ensure you have the right setup on your first photo. It is easy to forget what you used last time, so you need to get your camera back to the typical settings. That means no optical zoom or having the default camera focus length, the default 4:3 or 3:2 image ratio, a clean lens (particularly for smartphones), the photo mode you always use preset, no pre-applied effects, and a well-charged battery. | |||
When you need or want to experience with modern accessories such as straps, lights, stands, always do so well in advance of your shooting session. Having prior knowledge on how they behave, no matter how subtly the change feels, will matter a lot in the stress of a photo session, where everything has to be well rehearsed and executed precisely. | |||
=== The shooting rundown === | |||
Advanced preparations: | |||
* Decide whether you want a wide or a narrow angle shot, a portrait or a landscape one before doing anything else; | |||
* Decide where outdoor light offers the best conditions or adjust indoor light to your needs, if possible; | |||
* Avoid taking photos with the light behind the subject, or when large shadow areas occur, in front of the camera; | |||
* Avoid direct sunlight falling unevenly on the subject, unless you really want an artistic effect; | |||
Final preparations: | |||
* Attempt a quick initial framing to give a good idea on the optimal distance to the subject, do not take a picture yet; | |||
* Observe and avoid other subjects or elements that are drawing needless attention to them instead of your subject; | |||
* Adjust focal length on your camera or switch to a different optical magnification factor to reach optimum framing; | |||
* Try focusing and exposure adjustment on different parts of the picture to reach even subject exposure (smartphones); | |||
or | |||
* Try focusing on different parts of the picture to reach even subject exposure (semi-professional/professional cameras); | |||
The actual shooting (now you may raise the attention of your subject, if conditions apply) | |||
* Think in advance what the shots succession will be, what angles to focus upon; | |||
* Be flexible in your plan, if you notice the subject being well suited from a particular angle; | |||
* Give around a one second pause after the camera or the subject moves, to reach a stable shooting position; | |||
* Keep the camera steady and leveled before taking a shot, take 1 or 2 more quick shots if you suspect an unsteady hand; | |||
After taking the photos, give a cursory glance to your shots and decide if you attempt to re-take the same ones, switch to a new pose or end the session. Do not delete poorer shots yet, you would be wasting time precious time with your subject. | |||
== Focusing == | == Focusing == | ||
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What will you achieve by using the default option of a very high resolution? As it seems, there are some minor issues. The highest resolution image does not show necessarily more detail, on close inspection, and may exhibit whitish fringes near the edges of objects. This is due to heavy contrast enhancing processing that leaves such artifacts, reaching an image that is not better from a lower resolution one while it occupies more storage space and makes editing slower. | What will you achieve by using the default option of a very high resolution? As it seems, there are some minor issues. The highest resolution image does not show necessarily more detail, on close inspection, and may exhibit whitish fringes near the edges of objects. This is due to heavy contrast enhancing processing that leaves such artifacts, reaching an image that is not better from a lower resolution one while it occupies more storage space and makes editing slower. | ||
The best approach is to evaluate, separately, each resolution and format, on the same scene and subject, to determine which one works best. A common approach is to notice the format and | The best approach is to evaluate, separately, each resolution and format, on the same scene and subject, to determine which one works best. A common approach is to notice the format and resolution. Let's say at the 4:3 aspect ratio you have 64MP and 9268x6936 resolution, while at 3:4 aspect ratio you get and 16MP and 4624x3468 resolution. As a rule o thumb, the maximum resolution is never the actual sensor output and at lower resolutions the camera has a reduced risk of post-processing artifacts. Moving further up the options list, the so-called full resolution has a 4:2 format and is 4624x2084 and while the 16:9 one is 4624x2604. | ||
In this vast array of possibilities you cannot know which format is the best unless you take photos in daylight, preferably with sun-rays that are occluded by some obstacles yet shine through other areas. If there areas where the light shine brightly are under-saturated and the whole picture has little detail, you may need to select a broader image format, such as 4:2 instead of the typical 4:3 to have enough hinting on an overexposed picture and adjust accordingly. If the image has closer vertical and horizontal resolution there may be less of chance to see how far the light that affects your scene is coming from the unused sides of the sensor. This issue is much more common as you may expect while it also seems elusive, as what you don't see in the picture actually affects your end results. | |||
<code>''Understand what formats and resolution capability your smartphone camera exposes and make extensive tests in scenes that have intense light as well as relatively dim areas Try exactly the same framing on different image formats and notice which one looks better.''</code> | |||
===Wide or narrow angle shots=== | |||
With a smartphone camera you have the advantage of extensive customization and obvious, quick results but you do not have the best optics system. This is why you need to be experienced in choosing the right configuration for the task and leave some settings, that you know of, only for specific circumstances. | |||
Although it is counterintuitive, I generally suggest not pursuing neither a wider angle nor a narrow angle format, but be highly flexible in your approach. If you generally have less of an issue with scenes that show overexposure in parts of them, you can freely use a narrower angle format or a tight image format such as 4:3, while if you notice poor overall image quality you may have to switch to a wider format such as 4:2. | |||
<code>''The optics of your camera are the major limitation and you need to take into account many aspects. Experiment extensively with different setups before attempting a shot at a specific time of day or in a specific situation that you are not familiar with. It is always better to repeat annoyingly a process than to fail it altogether.''</code> | |||
=== Camera applications === | === Camera applications === | ||
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However, if you want to experience with a different application and see how it suits you, the best replacement I found and tested for many years was OpenCamera, an open-source versatile camera application that is, obviously, free of charge and well enough behaved to be on par or even above typical commercial software. | However, if you want to experience with a different application and see how it suits you, the best replacement I found and tested for many years was OpenCamera, an open-source versatile camera application that is, obviously, free of charge and well enough behaved to be on par or even above typical commercial software. | ||
<code>''While default camera application on smartphones may not be to your liking, it is recommended to get used to them. | <code>''While default camera application on smartphones may not be to your liking, it is recommended to get used to them. Definitely better overall results are difficult to achieve even with dedicated applications.''</code> | ||
=== Different operation modes === | === Different operation modes === | ||
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=== Macro mode === | === Macro mode === | ||
Some phones have a dedicated MACRO or extreme closeup mode, that operates at a distance between 2-5 centimeters from the camera. This context requires very bright lighting conditions so it is more suited to outdoor purposes. On professional and semi-professional cameras, the macro mode is, most of the time, suggested with a flower icon. | Some phones have a dedicated MACRO or extreme closeup mode, that operates at a distance between 2-5 centimeters from the main camera or a dedicated one in an array, in more modern products. This context requires very bright lighting conditions so it is more suited to outdoor purposes. On professional and semi-professional cameras, the macro mode is, most of the time, suggested with a flower icon. | ||
Professional cameras do not have a macro mode and they rely on using lens systems with short focal lengths to allow the necessary emphasis and focusing requirements on such scenes. For instance, taking a macro shot may require a 15-18mm focal length. | Professional cameras do not have a macro mode and they rely on using lens systems with short focal lengths to allow the necessary emphasis and focusing requirements on such scenes. For instance, taking a macro shot may require a 15-18mm focal length or an even shorter one. | ||
<code>''Macro most is best suited to natural environments, highlighting leafs and flower details, but it can also be used with certain ubiquitous objects from around us that may have a different meaning when pictured so close.''</code> | <code>''Macro most is best suited to natural environments, highlighting leafs and flower details, but it can also be used with certain ubiquitous objects from around us that may have a different meaning when pictured so close.''</code> | ||
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<code>''Use timed and burst shots sparingly, and preferably only when you have a tripod or stand that justifies such complex preparations or post-processing requirements.''</code> | <code>''Use timed and burst shots sparingly, and preferably only when you have a tripod or stand that justifies such complex preparations or post-processing requirements.''</code> | ||
==Hinting information == | ==Hinting information == | ||
All cameras can expose various information that is useful for persons that want to operate and learn more about the device. Information such as the current preset mode, flash activation, exposure time, ISO mode, estimated new shots available space | All cameras can expose various information that is useful for persons that want to operate and learn more about the device. Information such as the current preset mode, flash activation, exposure time, ISO mode, estimated new shots available space. | ||
=== Rule of Thirds === | === Rule of Thirds === | ||