Difference between revisions of "Taking Pictures with Different Cameras"

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<code>''You should learn to be familiar as quickly as possible with the 9 square, or three columns, three rows guidelines, where something interesting happens at each interesection. All cameras can superimpose this grid on the screen, to give you hints on captures''</code>
<code>''You should learn to be familiar as quickly as possible with the 9 square, or three columns, three rows guidelines, where something interesting happens at each interesection. All cameras can superimpose this grid on the screen, to give you hints on captures''</code>
== Subjects==
=== Landscapes, trees, plants ===
Vast fields, forested areas, trees, shrubs and plants are easily the most inspiring scenes. Weather and seasons present many opportunities to capture them from a slightly different perspective every day, leading to endless photos with good potential. Showcasing nature to a world where most of the population leaves in urban spaces is inspiring and meaningful. Imaginative pictures focus on showing aspects that are often overlooked due to our routine. Plants and particularly flowers offer ample opportunities and have a strong impact, considering that some of them have a very short lifespan.
<code>''Mountainous areas have a particular attraction with their breathtaking sights and they offer many opportunities for photographers. However, insufficient detail brought by weather conditions or a camera that is not coping as well with light conditions can affect the quality of a resulting image.''</code>
=== Ponds, Rivers, Lakes, The Sea ===
Water surfaces always attract us, since most of our life is spent on the land. On vast waterways it is better to look for details that intervene in an otherwise perfect platitude than to simply think about capturing the endless water surface. Ripples, splashes can be emphasized when they are in the picture's focus and there is some variation obtained in this way. Natural or man-made presence, whether we consider animals, vegetation or ships and structures, can always result in interesting photos. Closeups and odd picturing angles can also liven up the composition.
<code>''While you may like the look of endless water surfaces, they may be boring to your viewers. Show interesting compositions that avoid water being the main focus.''</code>
=== Wild, Semi-feral, Domestic Animals ===
Humans enjoy to experience the wilderness while not being harmed by it. Many times, the same can be said about the wildlife as it thrives when human intervention is minimal. To be able to experience the wild it is important to be patient and well versed with accessories such as tripods and high-magnification, telescope lenses. The main takeaway is that you can rarely show good pictures of true wilderness with a simple smartphone. Its camera is way too limited in optical capabilities for the requirements of these environments. Very good semi-professional and particularly professional cameras are required to end up with good enough pictures. Even so, fast moving animals may still be difficult to capture.
Semi-feral animals are easily the most likely subjects to practice photography. As they are somewhat accustomed to the human presence, they frequently stay closer to humans and this results in shorter distances from the camera. It is more likely to reach good enough positions from which to capture such animals. In some cases, insects that are less likely to run or fly frequently can also be captured with less advanced cameras such as the ones found in smartphones. Unfortunately, as in other similar cases, it is possible to end up with many unusable photos due to camera and particularly focusing and framing limitations. I advise only experiments with such subjects on smartphones since they frequently do not end up as a steady source of good snapshots.
<code>''Animals are difficult to capture, particularly if they fear human presence. Unless they are stray or domestic, it is difficult to capture them at a shorter distance to elicit good results without complex lenses and tripods or camera stands'</code>
=== Individuals and Groups ===
The most likely encounters with photography is probably from capturing known and unknown individuals. Since people rarely travel very fast by themselves and are naturally closer to us, particularly in urban environments, there is a vast expanse for experimentation with cameras and trying to capture details in their attire and gestures. Groups may be slightly more difficult to cover properly, particularly when they act disorganized but even in these cases there is at least an individual or a couple of them than can showcase a difference that can be well emphasized in a specific part of the image.
It is advisable to know that less brighter environments, as in some stage performances, are very difficult to capture properly with smartphones. The insufficient performance of the optical system means that only a very small of the picture is occupied by the subject or subjects, leading to poor details that remain visible. At least semi-professional cameras are required for such scenarios. The larger the distance to the point of interest, as is the case in certain sport competitions, the less chance of capturing it with an inexpensive or readily-available camera.
<code>''Avoid capturing individuals or groups when light comes from behind, and look for light that falls from above or at a left or right angle, unless you really want dramatic efects, such as with downlights''</code>
=== Buildings ===
An ubiquitous presence in urban environments, buildings are plentiful and can be the subject of numerous pictures. However, unless the buildings themselves have architectural features that signify complexity, it is rarely possible to end up with attractive pictures. When architecture blends in the environment, as is the case of being surrounded by sparse vegetation or groups of people, a much more attractive scene is achieved than in a deserted or concrete/asphalt dominant area. It is true that derelict or run-down buildings can also offer good opportunities, albeit their state will not elicit joyous reactions to most viewers and may even be offensive for heritage reasons.
Very tall or vast buildings may present difficulties for framing. Most inexpensive or general purpose cameras, as the ones used in smartphones, do not have the same optical compensations as professional cameras. This results in slight aberrations such as curvatures, that are more noticeable on such large subjects. With more modest cameras it is better to look for smaller areas of interest that are still able to overcome the apparent monotony. Reflective buildings, particularly office centers with large glass panels, may require experimentation in camera positioning to avoid glare, particularly on sunny days. Heritage or older buildings benefit a lot from shadows cast on them or having their features accentuated by other means such as reflections or temporary interventions.
<code>''Resist the temptation of filming the entire building, as it may bring no interest in the resulting picture. Prefer captures that emphasis certain features and avoid monotony. Different angled shots or variations may offer more attraction.''</code>
=== Vehicles ===
While vehicles are an integrated part of our lives, they require more effort in creating meaningful pictures. Simply capturing a standing vehicle may not be enough. The age and state, placement, buildings and people to which it stands nearby create an interesting scene. Moving vehicles by themselves, whether they are cars, trucks, trains or ships are more difficult to capture the faster they travel. Good lighting conditions and steady camera positioning is required. Some vehicles may be placed to far away to be properly captured with a smartphone, as they lack the required optical magnification to end up with useful details in images.
<code>''Showing the vehicle in its natural environment, a less common presence of it or simply details of it are all valid ideas to exploit in photographs.''</code>
=== Machinery and Components ===
All sorts of equipment has been and is present around us, telling a past story or making us enjoy the present. As such objects are abundant, there are vast opportunities to focus the camera lens on features we frequently ignore or use without a second thought. Closeups and environments that present various devices and products in uncommon places offer very good chances of ending up with great photos. Due to us having a detached experience that frequently leaves our electronic or mechanical creations well sheltered, showing their internal components can also be insightful to the audience, in a way to showcase beauty, order or the opposite of it.
== Framing Ideas ==
Framing refers to the way in which a subject or centerpiece of a photo is part of the environment. Good framing ensures the subject is clearly visible but also that other sugestive details are present in the scene. Bad framing shows the subject in a context that is almost empty, finds the subject close to the limit of the picture or has other flaws that are readily obvious. Experiencing with hundreds, even thousands of photos as well as noticing what is appreciated by others in photos will offer a good understanding of framing techniques.
Try to make the best use of the rule of thirds. Having the focus on a good subject yet sorounding it with other details that are attractive ensures successful photos. Never consider that a subject by itself or something unexpected about him is enough. Photography has everything to do with composition and the way in which multiple elements, preferably of different types, human and natural, tell a compelling story. Photos that offer little enticement to write a story about, are not good photos.
<code>''Take many photos, delete the ones that are poor, practice on subjects and compositions that you like the best to define your own personal style.''</code>
=== Nature ===
Natural elements are able to, by themselves, tell a story. As many elements usually interact, it is not difficult to "cut" and "expose" a specific part of the world.
Vegetation can naturally be a focus of many photos. Forested areas or multiple layers of vegetation create a rich atmosphere. The focus should be on elements that are unusual, such as different colour foliage, an animal, an insect or anything else that is different. Good photos break the monotony and suggest interactions between at least two or three planes. If it is a landscape picture avoid having long areas that are geometrically similar, such as a river bank, trees and sky. Ensure that at a couple of these natural features are not symmetric or similar.
Closeups and macro photography can be very attractive. It is advisable to keep in mind that the large optical magnifications required for successful photos are unavailable to smartphones. Certain closeups can be created with care and patience. The most spectacular ones you may have seen of different websites require professional cameras and tripods to ensure steady, detailed shots.
Panoramic pictures are not recommended. Since they require specific lenses or composition techniques to compensate for the lack of such optical systems or multiple cameras, they tend to be less viable than aspiring photographers may expect. It should also be known that panoramic photographs most likely require specific software or support to ensure the display of these composited images. This means that effort spent on a technique for a particular way of presentation has to be made from scratch for a different one, as some procedures are specific to each implementation.
<code>''Light and shadows cast on the natural environment or the presence of other elements that break the monotony, such as buildings and humans, are highly recommended in the composition.''</code>
=== Urban Photography and Buildings ===
Framing whole buildings is generally difficult or does not bring meaningful details into view. With the sole exception of landmarks, most buildings have symmetries that make a photography's content highly predictable. This is the main reason why the focus is on specific architectural features, alterations or novel interventions. The presence of animals, people, or any other object that may interact or have a relationship with the building or its neighborhood are advisable, unless they are also relatively ordered and symmetric. In such situations, framing should focus on an area of interest that seems as diverse as possible, without being considered as random.
Any human settlement, from a village to a sprawling metropolis, offers opportunities to highlight its life. Individuals or groups liven up the streets, animals such as birds may suddenly appear in secluded or more visible areas, various works leave temporary or permanent marks on the way in which an urban or rural area looks and feels. While sometimes more monotonous, cities truly offer unique experiences due to the mix of buildings, lifestyle, vegetation and weather specificity. Rural areas can also suggest compelling stories if the scene does feature certain variability in building facades, placements or natural background. For aspiring photographers, urban photography is easier to follow and improve upon.
<code>''Making photographs as a habit may not result in a lot of useful captures but will certainly offer experience, confidence and ability for more complex tasks or even result in some compelling compositions by chance. Never underestimate your daily photo routine!''</code>
=== Individual and Group Photography ===
Events frequently take place and offer ample photo opportunities particularly in cities. Crowds can form around places of high interest in the downtown area. All of these offer ample opportunity to experiment with smaller and larger crowds photos. Goals established for these scene address the variety of people present or particular details that are visible on some of them. Pictures have to be taken quite fast and opportunities may sudden arise or disappear. Improving skills in these environments may help in other circumstances and many useful images may result for illustration purposes.
Individual photography is somewhat more difficult as it may require additional care in taking good pictures of still or moving persons, which creates its own set of challenges. Smaller, lighter cameras, such as ones on smartphones, are an advantage in such circumstances as they can be easily moved to attempt various snapshots. However, it is always important to avoid being intrusive and to show respect when capturing or using such images. Individuals may be placed in any environment. The focus may be on their outfits, accessories or gestures that may be helpful in suggesting a compelling story. Closeups can be had only for other features than facial ones as privacy has to be respected.
<code>''A special mention has to be made for "selfies", as they do not help as much to improve photography techniques and their quality is generally poorer than for standard photos. However, they may help in testing or improving personal style as well as having inspiration for other standard photos.''</code>
=== Parks and Vegetation Abundant Areas ===
Natural or man-made parks and places with vegetation are high attraction areas for people. The more varied the landscape is and particularly if the area offers height differences, can result in highly appreciated spots for photography. Depending on situation, deserted or lively areas have their own benefits and the environment may be enhanced or affected by their presence. This means that certain areas should be captured at different times of day and on different seasons to better gauge what kind of context is more suitable. Sometimes buildings may be obtrusive or better blend into the natural environment. Any good photography location has to be assessed separately and in multiple photos.
<code>''Any area with vegetation can become the centerpiece of highly appreciated photographs. The most successful ones may use framing techniques that avoid an obvious atmosphere that is typical to other photographers.''</code>


{{footnotes|
{{footnotes|

Revision as of 20:22, 3 September 2023

Apple IBook G3 12.1"

Introduction

Each camera offers different capturing abilities that have a major impact on results. Experience plays a major role in improving performance, yet it is important to know right from the beginning what expectations to have. The following details will be focused upon that.

It is good to know that the most common way to take photographs is using the smartphone or camera in a landscape or horizontal position. In this way, you end up with pictures that have the best chances of capturing your subject and be detailed enough. While some situations may look excessive, it is always better to have slightly more room for your subject and interesting background than too less. Sometimes, you may be better served by the portrait or vertical orientation of the camera, as it can better capture a single individual and its posture.

Remember that the way you orient your camera most of the time is landscape or horizontal. It is good to know that there are other orientations, such as a portrait one, and it is advisable to experiment with multiple orientations and taking pictures at various distances from the subject, as this offers more opportunities on editing.

Focusing

It may be obvious that focusing is always in the center of the picture, where the actual reason and position of the subject you wanted to capture is best. However, there are situations where the subject may be better of to be slightly off-focus or to have the focus on a certain feature. Most cameras do have auto-focus and some may use different ways of interpreting where focus shall be or give the possibility of having manual focus.

In my experience most pictures work very well with autofocus on mondern cameras, regardless of how expensive they are. Of course, more modern technology translates into faster autofocus and better results. However, having the choice of manual autofocus may also be helpful. This is not a wrong description. The manual choice means you can select where the focus will occur by half-pressing the snapshot button on semi-professional and professional cameras. The same principle works by pressing somewhere on the image in the camera application of smartphones. After that, the camera system tries to focus where you want and can take a picture when required.

You can slightly alter the position camera and, if it is not too far from the original position, the camera remembers the distance at which it should focus. Of course, this works best at distances of less than 10 meters, where professional and semi-professional cameras can have very good focusing capabilities and estimations using a red light beam. These advanced cameras also have internal screens that may give instant, direct feedback on focusing right to your eye.

As strange as it may sound, having the possibility and mastering the technique of triggering focus on a specific part of the image is a professional skill. The ability to make the best use of focusing can end up with pictures that have most details where you want rather than where they would have it by default.

Steady shots are best

The best way to take photos is using a tripod. Having a perfectly stable camera position makes it possible to have the best images, regardless of the type of camera you use. Any, movement, no matter how slight, reduces the clarity of the image. While all cameras have quite advanced image stabilization possibilities, you still end up with best pictures when the camera is steady. Unfortunately, tripods or stands are bulky, heavy and cumbersome.

Steady shots with one hand

Despite how it may seem, you always create better shots using a single hand, as long as the camera or smartphone is not too heavy and you do not hold the device too high. The reasons two hands are not better than one is due to the fact that slight trembling on one hand is less noticeable than the one that compounds from both hands. Moreover, all image stabilization algorithms handle better movement in mostly a single direction and this is why you will easily end up with better pictures this way. However, there are times when one hand is not enough.

If you do not have confidence in holding a camera with one hand, try to improve your technique and resort to straps or bands to avoid falls, until you are experienced enough. Mastering single hand camera operation is the best approach to having great pictures and faster captures.

Using a tripod or stand

Tripod and camera stands come in different sizes and build quality, but there is no substitute for a good design, meaning that you end up with costly and heavy equipment. Depending on how much you have to move by yourself or using different vehicles, you can get by with lighter or heavier options. Generally, the heavier and more advanced the tripod or stand is, the better are your chances at quickly orienting the camera in a direction and obtain a steady shots. The handle on the camera stand can turn the camera with high accuracy. Good tripods always have various compensations and dampening techniques, resulting in quick and stable shots. Also, the way in which the tripod is firmly grounded makes it possible to afford various movement mistakes that would otherwise ruin a capture.

Extensible tripods and stands are best for highly movable photography, while being easily packed in bags. Sophisticated tripods require luggage space and are more difficult to carry. In time, and based upon your activities, you will get used to different stands and opt for the best choice. Experiment with tripods and stands.

Lenses, Magnification (zoom factor, focal length)

All cameras no matter their type, have a lens system that allows them to capture images. Smartphone cameras have mostly fixed lenses, while professional cameras have removable lenses, giving them the best flexibility but also making them highly expensive. Lenses can be characterized by focal length, aperture, distortion, astigmatism and many other physical properties. For most users, however, the focal length is the single most important factor. Note that the focal length is a way to measure the distance at which a lens focuses light towards an imaginary 35mm film or sensor.

While professional photographers discuss about their optics as commonly having 18mm to 55mm focal lengths, hobby photographers use 1x, 4x, 8x, or zoom factor properties. As this material is aimed more at beginners and semiprofessional users, the zoom factor will be used instead.

The magnification or zoom factor

When operating in the default mode, all cameras have a 1X or no magnification factor. This allows a camera to take a picture that is close to what our eyes perceive. Our eyes also have a lens, although our lens is extremely flexible compared to our cameras. In order to take a wider picture than our eyes see, such as for a panorama, you need less than 1x zoom factor, while for closeup pictures, such as on subjects at events, pictured from a distance higher than 50 meters, you need at least 8x to 16x zoom factors to end up with usable pictures. This is why you need at least 4x zoom factor for decent amateur or hobby results, even on smartphone cameras.

Most consumer and semi-professional cameras will advertise the zoom factor in two ways: an optical one and a digital one. The optical zoom factor is the most important and the single definite argument to make a device more flexible. A good camera should be able to accommodate high zoom factors although this will also make it more expensive, as lens systems that are able to achieve such results are more complex to manufacture and configure. Digital zoom factor is created by applying various post-processing techniques, leading to slightly more blurred images, as you would create if your image would be stretched or zoomed in your image editor. There are various ways in which a camera signals transitioning from an optical to a digital zoom, and you need to avoid going over the known zooom factor limitations of your current lens.

It is advisable to observe that the higher your optical zoom factor or lens focal length is, the more your camera will be prone to suffer from the slightest movement or instability. When creating closeup pictures, it is good to have an extremely steady hand but it is much better to capture images using tripods and stands. Professional cameras have the advantage of high variety of lens systems that are tailored to any photo, from closeups to long distance or telephoto lenses. They can also be used on different cameras, which means if the camera has the same mounting system it can be easily used on your new one. For instance, these optical systems can have polarizers and lens hoods which improve capturing abilities in intense sunlight.

Get used to different lenses and zoom factors, but avoid ever using digital zoom or higher than optical zoom magnifications while taking pictures, to avoid reducing image clarity. Use tripods and stands to have steady shots at closeup captures.

Smartphone cameras

Smartphones are easily the most versatile devices. It seems that everything is obvious yet there are a lot of untapped possibilities. True photo abilities are rarely known in detail. Most of the time we rely on having everything set on AUTO and just taking a snapshot, but all phones offer much more than that.

Camera applications

Unfortunately, using a different camera application, despite potential new possibilities, rarely works as intended. There are very few applications that offer significant improvements for Android phone, for instance, no matter if we consider paid or free software. The issue is that there are few users of advanced features and development itself requires resource that have to be tailored towards a larger variety of manufacturers an extensive testing to reach good results.

Most applications have worse performance than the ones supplied by the manufacturer and offer only minimal additional capabilities. None of them will result in dramatically improved pictures as most of the processing happens beyond the camera application control, and sometimes they have worse capturing delays and response due to not having the same hardware-software optimization that is only available to the manufacturer.

However, if you want to experience with a different application and see how it suits you, the best replacement I found and tested for many years was OpenCamera, an open-source versatile camera application that is, obviously, free of charge and well enough behaved to be on par or even above typical commercial software.

While default camera application on smartphones may not be to your liking, it is recommended to get used to them. Better overall results are difficult to achieve, in most cases.

Different operation modes

Leaving the default AUTO mode most of the time is preferred, and having the PHOTO mode active by default. Changing settings on the fly when you also want to take pictures can result in missed opportunities for captures and this is the main reason we accept the AUTO mode. It is important to also know what is offered by other modes. Some smartphone may not have all modes or have them named slightly different. Only the most relevant ones are presented.

The strongest recommendation is to always disable the FLASH function, which may be indicated by a lighting symbol. You may end up with uneven washed pictures, it is pointless outdoors and results in less practice to make the better use of lighting in indoor environments. Any aspiring photographer should avoid using the flash unless he has good self-made or purchased light diffusers mounted on the stand-alone flash housing of typical professional cameras.

Typical Camera Operation Modes

AUTO, Photo mode (AutoExposure, AutoFocus, Auto White Balance)

This mode is a good compromise. You can end up with surprising results using this mode and slightly changing the way in which you frame your subject. Try to use the main camera and avoid magnifications such as 2x or more or .5, which is less than 1, as they may slightly distort your capture and offer lower resolution than your main camera. When framing the subject is impossible at standard distance, definitely use any magnification that offers better chances of capture rather than risking to lose such an opportunity.

Auto Exposure and Auto Focus are the biggest improvements in recent phones so I highly recommend using them to the full extent. When you can point at part of the image and adjust both values you can very quickly reach good photos. Auto exposure on the part of image that interests you, ensures that the picture is never washed out or overly dark. Slightly adjusting the focus near the area with high shifts from dark to bright areas create the most balanced results. For artistic effects, you may experience with different points on the same frame and see which one ends up with a more interesting image.

Auto White balance is less obvious but it highly important in having consistent results. As outdoor lighting conditions change throughout the day, most modern cameras are able to compensate for slight colour inconsistencies, ending up with more pictures that are similar to the way in which our eyes perceive the reality. There are very few situations where using a manual auto-balance may result in better results, other than for artistic effects that achieve an artificial look in certain scenes. In most situations, the advanced auto white balance feature is best used as is.

The alternative method to using AUTO values would have been to fiddle with so many settings in the hopes of reaching a reasonable result, such as: exposure, shutter speed, ISO values, white balance. All of these values must be slightly changed even when a picture is only shifted by a couple of centimeters. This is the power processing that your camera makes so that you end up with usable results when pressing the snapshot button. However, knowing how these value change results may help you better understand what your camera is capable of.

Experiment with adjusting focus and brightness on various parts of the scene you intend to capture. It is the fastest way to end up with the best photos!

HDR or High Dynamic Range

We would like to have the highest ability to capture lighter and darker parts of our picture, but the two requirements are opposite to each other. We either strive for better details or we avoid overblown pictures. HDR or High Dynamic Range promises to change all that. However, there are many caveats. The most important is that HDR means a composite picture, a picture that superimposes the less exposed and more exposed picture of your subject. This means that some details are preserved but colour accuracy is not maintained.

To compensate for colour mismatches between the lower and higher exposure snapshots, the picture is processed and ends up over-saturated. Since the result is so heavily processed and there is no way to control transformations, many pictures will end up with an artificial look. Also, it is important to be aware that such compounded pictures require more time to capture and, thus, do not lend themselves well to scenes or subjects that are not static.

The above mentioned limitations are present in any camera, whether we consider smartphones, semi-professional or professional products. HDR truly became interesting, unfortunately, because it stood out from conventional photos, as some manufacturers attempted to differentiate themselves. As this tendency became common and many people enjoyed the artificial look, there is little interest to mute the picture and get closer to what the principle of HDR photos state it should be.

The so-called "HDR" is unpredictable and leads to results that are rarely consistent. Heavily processed images coming out of the camera look less attractive to some viewers. It is better to avoid such camera modes, but it is advisable to experiment with them to better understand how they are achieved and their pros and cons.

Macro mode

Some phones have a dedicated MACRO or extreme closeup mode, that operates at a distance between 2-5 centimeters from the camera. This context requires very bright lighting conditions so it is more suited to outdoor purposes. On professional and semi-professional cameras, the macro mode is, most of the time, suggested with a flower icon.

Macro most is best suited to natural environments, highlighting leafs and flower details, but it can also be used with certain ubiquitous objects from around us that may have a different meaning when pictured so close.

Panorama

While potentially appealing, panorama modes present many shortcomings due to limited abilities of phone camera lenses. Curvature aberrations are highly noticeable and lead to generally poor images. Any misalignment in successive photos or changes in light affect the final outcome. It is not recommended to use this mode except for practice purposes. With proper hinting on accurate camera positioning on subsequent shots, it can result in usable pictures that are, however, somewhat less spectacular than you may hope. For such situations, professional camera users have superangular lenses that are unavailable on other devices.

In most situations, it is ill-advised to rely on panorama shot mode. It is good to know, however, through experimentation, what can be achieved.

Slow-motion and Burst Mode

Showing the movement of a subject may be interesting in some circumstances, as happens in sports, dance or when there is an interest in highlighting a well known phenomenon that is too quick for us. Capturing such scenes require cameras that are able to take quickly a set of pictures, at very short intervals. However, requirements for this type of captures are even stricter than for typical photos, as exposure times are shortened and the available picture processing times are much more limited. The result is that pictures can more easily end up being underexposed or darker than they should, or show slight focusing problems.

Before cameras were able to take successive snapshots at intervals below one second, the only ability to capture subjects and movement was to use the so-called "Burst" mode. This ability commonly translated into a couple of pictures being taken in 5 seconds, usually one every second. Another additional use of this mode aims at obtaining more useful snapshots, since at least one of them may end up with a good result. Unfortunately, using burst mode in these circumstances results with more near copies of the same picture, wasting space and time. Overall, the same limitations applied as for slow-motion pictures occur for burst mode pictures, meaning that the risk of under-exposure and focusing were present. Some cameras may still provide a burst mode today.

As a rule of thumb, most cameras will require much better lighting and improved stability to capture useful slow-motion pictures. There are few circumstances where the burst mode will be useful.

Timed pictures

In the past, pictures that were taken with a timed delay of a couple of seconds were, perhaps, the only way to achieve the camera operator to also be part of the picture, long before smartphones created the selfie photo opportunity. Nowadays, using timed pictures does not offer as many advantages since most cameras are much better able to handle our preferences. Moreover, since we experience countdowns less in our lives due to most products reacting faster, waiting for the countdown and making repeated attempts when something goes wrong, seems tiring.

Due to the risk of not synchronizing the picture with the subject, as the person taking the picture is not aware precisely when the snapshot will take place, timed photos frequently end in frustration, and may be avoided.

Timed shots and burst shots

Timed captures were used when more subjects would have to be inside the scene, commonly including the photographer as well, and they were created using standard cameras. Modern smartphones can create good enough pictures but a camera mounted on a tripod and using a timed shot still creates the best picture. You can experiment with different countdowns and see which ones are best for the occasion, as they are generally used for event photos.

Burst shots may seem to be a good choice for subjects that may experience vast movement or when you are afraid of not capturing a steady shot. However, most of the time, you end up with more images than you really need, and choosing the proper one gets tedious after a while. You also need to use more storage space. These are the reasons why burst shots are rarely used unless the events require the best chance of ending up with a useful picture, mostly at events.

Use timed and burst shots sparingly, and preferably only when you have a tripod or stand that justifies such complex preparations or post-processing requirements.

Rule of Thirds

Photos with great potential maintain the same attributes in just about any circumstance. Proper framing is an essential technique that can offer the best possibilities for future use. A common way to achieve that is to apply the so-called ruled of thirds: you divide your picture into 9, focusing your subject close to the center of the image and having sufficient details to make the best use of the transitioning area between each of the 9 divisions. Good pictures have the main subject slightly off center but make good use of the frame to draw attention in other parts of the image as well. A subject should not fill the entire image or be the sole point of interest in the center of the picture or anywhere else. The composition should be balanced by other elements.

A major side-benefit of applying the rule of thirds is that you easily end up with photos that can be easily cropped or have only their interesting points emphasized in a particular format. This is particularly useful when we consider that images are generally by default wide and narrow, or created as landscape formats, as on for the cinema, while some popular devices, such as smartphones, may favour the square format and include text or different information below the picture. Having a subject and framing technique that is flexible enough results in final pictures that can be cut well to reach very good results in any purpose.

You should learn to be familiar as quickly as possible with the 9 square, or three columns, three rows guidelines, where something interesting happens at each interesection. All cameras can superimpose this grid on the screen, to give you hints on captures

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