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Difference between revisions of "Taking Pictures with Different Cameras"
Taking Pictures with Different Cameras (view source)
Revision as of 20:10, 31 August 2023
, 20:10, 31 August 2023→AUTO, Photo mode (with AutoExposure and AutoFocus)
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''The strongest recommendation is to always disable the FLASH function, which may be indicated by a lighting symbol. You may end up with uneven washed pictures, it is pointless outdoors and results in less practice to make the better use of lighting in indoor environments. Any aspiring photographer should avoid using the flash assistance.'' | ''The strongest recommendation is to always disable the FLASH function, which may be indicated by a lighting symbol. You may end up with uneven washed pictures, it is pointless outdoors and results in less practice to make the better use of lighting in indoor environments. Any aspiring photographer should avoid using the flash assistance.'' | ||
== AUTO, Photo mode (with AutoExposure | == Typical Camera Operation Modes == | ||
=== AUTO, Photo mode (with AutoExposure, AutoFocus, Auto White Balance) == | |||
This mode is a good compromise. You can end up with surprising results using this mode and slightly changing the way in which you frame your subject. Try to use the main camera and avoid magnifications such as 2x or more or .5, which is less than 1, as they may slightly distort your capture and offer lower resolution than your main camera. When framing the subject is impossible at standard distance, definitely use any magnification that offers better chances of capture rather than risking to lose such an opportunity. | This mode is a good compromise. You can end up with surprising results using this mode and slightly changing the way in which you frame your subject. Try to use the main camera and avoid magnifications such as 2x or more or .5, which is less than 1, as they may slightly distort your capture and offer lower resolution than your main camera. When framing the subject is impossible at standard distance, definitely use any magnification that offers better chances of capture rather than risking to lose such an opportunity. | ||
Auto Exposure and Auto Focus are the biggest improvements in recent phones so I highly recommend using them to the full extent. When you can point at part of the image and adjust both values you can very quickly reach good photos. Auto exposure on the part of image that interests you ensures that the picture is never washed out or overly dark. Slightly adjusting the focus near areas but right on the area with high shifts from dark to bright areas create the most balanced results. For artistic effects, you may experience with different points on the same frame and see which one ends up with a more interesting image. | Auto Exposure and Auto Focus are the biggest improvements in recent phones so I highly recommend using them to the full extent. When you can point at part of the image and adjust both values you can very quickly reach good photos. Auto exposure on the part of image that interests you ensures that the picture is never washed out or overly dark. Slightly adjusting the focus near areas but right on the area with high shifts from dark to bright areas create the most balanced results. For artistic effects, you may experience with different points on the same frame and see which one ends up with a more interesting image. | ||
Auto White balance is less obvious but it highly important in having consistent results. As outdoor lighting conditions change throughout the day, most modern cameras are able to compensate slight colour inconsistencies, ending up with more pictures that are similar to the way in which our eyes perceive the reality. There are very few situations where using a manual auto-balance may result in better results, other than for artistic effects that create an artificial look in certain scenes. In most situations, the advanced auto white balance feature is best used as is. | |||
The alternative method to using AUTO values would have been to fiddle with so many settings in the hopes of reaching a reasonable result, such as: exposure, shutter speed, white balance. All of these values must be slightly changed even when a picture is only shifted by a couple of centimeters. This is the power processing that your camera makes so that you end up with usable results when pressing the snapshot button. However, knowing how these value change results may help you better understand what your camera is capable of. | The alternative method to using AUTO values would have been to fiddle with so many settings in the hopes of reaching a reasonable result, such as: exposure, shutter speed, white balance. All of these values must be slightly changed even when a picture is only shifted by a couple of centimeters. This is the power processing that your camera makes so that you end up with usable results when pressing the snapshot button. However, knowing how these value change results may help you better understand what your camera is capable of. | ||
''Experiment with adjusting focus and brightness on various parts of the scene you intend to capture. It is the fastest way to end up with the best photos!'' | <code>''Experiment with adjusting focus and brightness on various parts of the scene you intend to capture. It is the fastest way to end up with the best photos!''</code> | ||
=== HDR or High Dynamic Range === | === HDR or High Dynamic Range === | ||
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To compensate for colour mismatches between the lower and higher exposure snapshots, the picture is processed and ends up over-saturated. Since the result is so heavily processed and there is no way to control transformations, many pictures will end up with an artificial look. Also, it is important to be aware that such compounded pictures require more time to capture and, thus, do not lend themselves well to scenes or subjects that are not static. | To compensate for colour mismatches between the lower and higher exposure snapshots, the picture is processed and ends up over-saturated. Since the result is so heavily processed and there is no way to control transformations, many pictures will end up with an artificial look. Also, it is important to be aware that such compounded pictures require more time to capture and, thus, do not lend themselves well to scenes or subjects that are not static. | ||
The above mentioned limitations are present in any camera, whether we consider smartphones, semi-professional or professional products. HDR | The above mentioned limitations are present in any camera, whether we consider smartphones, semi-professional or professional products. HDR truly became interesting, unfortunately, because it stood out from conventional photos, as some manufacturers attempted to differentiate themselves. As this tendency became common and many people enjoyed the artificial look, there is little interest to mute the picture and get closer to what the principle of HDR photos state it should be. | ||
<code>''The so-called "HDR" is unpredictable and leads to results that are rarely consistent. Heavily processed images coming out of the camera look less attractive to some viewers. It is better to avoid such camera modes, but it is advisable to experiment with them to better understand how they are achieved and their pros and cons.''</code> | |||
=== Macro mode === | === Macro mode === | ||
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Some phones have a dedicated MACRO or extreme closeup mode, that operates at a distance between 2-5 centimeters from the camera. This context requires very bright lighting conditions so it is more suited to outdoor purposes. | Some phones have a dedicated MACRO or extreme closeup mode, that operates at a distance between 2-5 centimeters from the camera. This context requires very bright lighting conditions so it is more suited to outdoor purposes. | ||
''Macro most is best suited to natural environments, highlighting leafs and flower details, but it can also be used with certain ubiquitous objects from around us that may have a different meaning when pictured so close.'' | <code>''Macro most is best suited to natural environments, highlighting leafs and flower details, but it can also be used with certain ubiquitous objects from around us that may have a different meaning when pictured so close.''</code> | ||
=== Panorama === | === Panorama === | ||
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Before cameras were able to take successive snapshots at intervals below one second, the only ability to capture subjects and movement was to use the so-called "Burst" mode. This ability commonly translated into a couple of pictures being taken in 5 seconds, usually one every second. Another additional use of this mode aims at obtaining more useful snapshots, since at least one of them may end up with a good result. Unfortunately, using burst mode in these circumstances results with more near copies of the same picture, wasting space and time. Overall, the same limitations applied as for slow-motion pictures occur for burst mode pictures, meaning that the risk of under-exposure and focusing were present. Some cameras may still provide a burst mode today. | Before cameras were able to take successive snapshots at intervals below one second, the only ability to capture subjects and movement was to use the so-called "Burst" mode. This ability commonly translated into a couple of pictures being taken in 5 seconds, usually one every second. Another additional use of this mode aims at obtaining more useful snapshots, since at least one of them may end up with a good result. Unfortunately, using burst mode in these circumstances results with more near copies of the same picture, wasting space and time. Overall, the same limitations applied as for slow-motion pictures occur for burst mode pictures, meaning that the risk of under-exposure and focusing were present. Some cameras may still provide a burst mode today. | ||
''As a rule of thumb, most cameras will require much better lighting and improved stability to capture useful slow-motion pictures. There are few circumstances where the burst mode will be useful.'' | <code>''As a rule of thumb, most cameras will require much better lighting and improved stability to capture useful slow-motion pictures. There are few circumstances where the burst mode will be useful.''</code> | ||
=== Timed pictures === | === Timed pictures === | ||
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In the past, pictures that were taken with a timed delay of a couple of seconds were, perhaps, the only way to achieve the camera operator to also be part of the picture, long before smartphones created the selfie photo opportunity. Nowadays, using timed pictures does not offer as many advantages since most cameras are much better able to handle our preferences. Moreover, since we experience countdowns less in our lives due to most products reacting faster, waiting for the countdown and making repeated attempts when something goes wrong, seems tiring. | In the past, pictures that were taken with a timed delay of a couple of seconds were, perhaps, the only way to achieve the camera operator to also be part of the picture, long before smartphones created the selfie photo opportunity. Nowadays, using timed pictures does not offer as many advantages since most cameras are much better able to handle our preferences. Moreover, since we experience countdowns less in our lives due to most products reacting faster, waiting for the countdown and making repeated attempts when something goes wrong, seems tiring. | ||
''Due to the risk of not synchronizing the picture with the subject, as the person taking the picture is not aware precisely when the snapshot will take place, timed photos frequently end in frustration, and may be avoided.'' | <code>''Due to the risk of not synchronizing the picture with the subject, as the person taking the picture is not aware precisely when the snapshot will take place, timed photos frequently end in frustration, and may be avoided.''</code> | ||
=== Timed shots and burst shots === | === Timed shots and burst shots === | ||
Timed captures were used when more subjects would have to be inside the scene, commonly including the photographer as well, and they were created using standard cameras. Modern smartphones can create good enough pictures but a camera mounted on a tripod and using a timed shot still creates the best picture. You can experiment with different countdowns and see which ones are best for the occasion, as they are generally used for event photos. | |||
Burst shots may seem to be a good choice for subjects that may experience vast movement or when you are afraid of not capturing a steady shot. However, most of the time, you end up with more images than you really need, and choosing the proper one gets tedious after a while. You also need to use more storage space. These are the reasons why burst shots are rarely used unless the events require the best chance of ending up with a useful picture, mostly at events. | |||
=== Rule of Thirds === | === Rule of Thirds === | ||