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Taking Pictures with Different Cameras (view source)

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*Tripods and stands
*Tripods and stands
*Lenses, magnification (X or zoom factor)
*Lenses, magnification (X or zoom factor)
*Wide angle/Narrow angle shots
*Image formats
*Aspect ratio
*Auto exposure
*Auto exposure
*Auto focus
*Auto focus
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<code>''Remember that the way you orient your camera most of the time is landscape or horizontal. It is good to know that there are other orientations, such as a portrait one, and it is advisable to experiment with multiple orientations and taking pictures at various distances from the subject, as this offers more opportunities on editing.''</code>
<code>''Remember that the way you orient your camera most of the time is landscape or horizontal. It is good to know that there are other orientations, such as a portrait one, and it is advisable to experiment with multiple orientations and taking pictures at various distances from the subject, as this offers more opportunities on editing.''</code>
== Photo sessions ==
It may seem all too obvious how you should take a photo, however, to the best of my judgement, I made a list of quick suggestions to apply while the remainder of the page shows the reasoning behind them in particular details. This should ensure you take at least above average shots, when given the opportunity. Always keep in mind that a session could get longer or shorter, depending on context, and you need to agree in advance with your subject, if this applies. Never rush a session or have one when exhausted, the risk of ruining such an opportunity is too high.
Avoid considering a good photo as being the result of simply pointing the camera and creating a lasting memory. Great shots require at least a degree of planning that takes 5-10 seconds in the least. Always consider how much the subject is able to cope with such requirements and avoid needlessly exhausting him or her when you are just testing various approaches. Require undivided attention only after the final preparation stage. Avoid too much experimentation with poses and shooting techniques unless there is a broad agreement with the subject, a shooting session is exhausting and your subject may have to experience more on the same day. Acting kindly and understanding matters a lot.
=== Advanced preparations ===
Ensure you have the right setup on your first photo. It is easy to forget what you used last time, so you need to get your camera back to the typical settings. That means no optical zoom or having the default camera focus length, the default 4:3 or 3:2 image ratio, a clean lens (particularly for smartphones), the photo mode you always use preset, no pre-applied effects, and a well-charged battery.
When you need or want to experience with modern accessories such as straps, lights, stands, always do so well in advance of your shooting session. Having prior knowledge on how they behave, no matter how subtly the change feels, will matter a lot in the stress of a photo session, where everything has to be well rehearsed and executed precisely.
=== The shooting rundown ===
Advanced preparations:
* Decide whether you want a wide or a narrow angle shot, a portrait or a landscape one before doing anything else;
* Decide where outdoor light offers the best conditions or adjust indoor light to your needs, if possible;
* Avoid taking photos with the light behind the subject, or when large shadow areas occur, in front of the camera;
* Avoid direct sunlight falling unevenly on the subject, unless you really want an artistic effect;
Final preparations:
* Attempt a quick initial framing to give a good idea on the optimal distance to the subject, do not take a picture yet;
* Observe and avoid other subjects or elements that are drawing needless attention to them instead of your subject;
* Adjust focal length on your camera or switch to a different optical magnification factor to reach optimum framing;
* Try focusing and exposure adjustment on different parts of the picture to reach even subject exposure (smartphones);
or
* Try focusing on different parts of the picture to reach even subject exposure (semi-professional/professional cameras);
The actual shooting (now you may raise the attention of your subject, if conditions apply)
* Think in advance what the shots succession will be, what angles to focus upon;
* Be flexible in your plan, if you notice the subject being well suited from a particular angle;
* Give around a one second pause after the camera or the subject moves, to reach a stable shooting position;
* Keep the camera steady and leveled before taking a shot, take 1 or 2 more quick shots if you suspect an unsteady hand;
After taking the photos, give a cursory glance to your shots and decide if you attempt to re-take the same ones, switch to a new pose or end the session. Do not delete poorer shots yet, you would be wasting time precious time with your subject.


== Focusing ==
== Focusing ==
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== Steady shots are best ==
== Steady shots are best ==


The best way to take photos is using a tripod. Having a perfectly stable camera position makes it possible to have the best images, regardless of the type of camera you use. Any, movement, no matter how slight, reduces the clarity of the image. While all cameras have quite advanced image stabilization possibilities, you still end up with best pictures when the camera is steady. Unfortunately, tripods or stands are bulky, heavy and cumbersome.
The best way to take photos is using a tripod. Having a perfectly stable camera position makes it possible to have the best images, regardless of the type of camera you use. Any, movement, no matter how slight, reduces the clarity of the image. The progress of image capturing technology and instant processing has made possible today's surprisingly good photos with a camera simply held in a hand.
 
<code>''While all cameras have quite advanced image stabilization possibilities, you still end up with best pictures when the camera is perfectly steady. Unfortunately, tripods or stands are bulky, heavy and cumbersome.''</code>


=== Steady shots with one hand ===
=== Steady shots with one hand ===
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<code>''Extensible tripods and stands are best for highly movable photography, while being easily packed in bags. Sophisticated tripods require luggage space and are more difficult to carry. In time, and based upon your activities, you will get used to different stands and opt for the best choice. Experiment with tripods and stands.''</code>
<code>''Extensible tripods and stands are best for highly movable photography, while being easily packed in bags. Sophisticated tripods require luggage space and are more difficult to carry. In time, and based upon your activities, you will get used to different stands and opt for the best choice. Experiment with tripods and stands.''</code>


== Lenses, Magnification (zoom factor, focal length) ==
== Focal distance and magnification factor==
Depending upon the distance from your subject and specific requirements such as emphasis on certain features, you will require different optical configurations from your camera. For a smartphone or semi-professional camera, everything will be easily set by pressing a few buttons, and you enter the specific magnification you require. For a recent smartphone, it results in switching from one of the internal cameras to another, and the new setup is immediately noticeable on the screen, as the fixed magnification factors, usually from .5 to 2x are indicated.


All cameras no matter their type, have a lens system that allows them to capture images. Smartphone cameras have mostly fixed lenses, while professional cameras have removable lenses, giving them the best flexibility but also making them highly expensive. Lenses can be characterized by focal length, aperture, distortion, astigmatism and many other physical properties. For most users, however, the focal length is the single most important factor. Note that the focal length is a way to measure the distance at which a lens focuses light towards an imaginary 35mm film or sensor.
For semi-professional cameras you press a button near the shutter and it zooms in or out the image, while the magnification factor is indicated on the screen. The closer you are, the lower the indicated value, while the further you are from the subject, the greater the required magnification factor is to reach a usable picture. Always keep in mind that the farther you are from your subject, the greater the focal length is required, the lower the amount of useful light that enters your camera and the greater the impact of even slight shaking has on your image stability. It is always the best to be right near your subject, when possible, no matter how good your camera and lens system is.


While professional photographers discuss about their optics as commonly having 18mm to 55mm focal lengths, hobby photographers use 1x, 4x, 8x, or zoom factor properties. As this material is aimed more at beginners and semiprofessional users, the zoom factor will be used instead.
On professional cameras, the magnification factor is more limited and you require physically swapping lens systems to reach the desired focal length and magnification factor to easily focus your subject. This means that, for instance, you may have a 18-45mm lens set for typical portraits, general pictures and nature ones, while you switch to a 55-210mm one for closeup on birds from far away or for capturing mountains and other natural wonders from a very large distance.


===The magnification or zoom factor===
Every time you resort to using focal distances on an optical system you experience specific situations that are suitable to one configuration or another, and no theoretical study will show exactly what you can do in specific circumstances. For any camera, any situation that is at the limit of focal lenses and you consistently require such a scenario, makes you, the photographer, aware that you need to compensate by changing your positioning from the subject to further compensate for a specific framing requirement.


When operating in the default mode, all cameras have a 1X or no magnification factor. This allows a camera to take a picture that is close to what our eyes perceive. Our eyes also have a lens, although our lens is extremely flexible compared to our cameras. In order to take a wider picture than our eyes see, such as for a panorama, you need less than 1x zoom factor, while for closeup pictures, such as on subjects at events, pictured from a distance higher than 50 meters, you need at least 8x to 16x zoom factors to end up with usable pictures. This is why you need at least 4x zoom factor for decent amateur or hobby results, even on smartphone cameras.
<code>''Focal lengths, magnification factors, and the way to compensate for limitations on your camera need to be experienced repeatedly and well understood. With any camera there is a learning curve to master and you need time to reach adequate results on new equipment, before changing anything once more in your setup.''</code>


Most consumer and semi-professional cameras will advertise the zoom factor in two ways: an optical one and a digital one. The optical zoom factor is the most important and the single definite argument to make a device more flexible. A good camera should be able to accommodate high zoom factors although this will also make it more expensive, as lens systems that are able to achieve such results are more complex to manufacture and configure. Digital zoom factor is created by applying various post-processing techniques, leading to slightly more blurred images, as you would create if your image would be stretched or zoomed in your image editor. There are various ways in which a camera signals transitioning from an optical to a digital zoom, and you need to avoid going over the known zooom factor limitations of your current lens.
== Smartphone cameras ==
Smartphones are easily the most versatile devices. It seems that everything is obvious yet there are a lot of untapped possibilities. True photo abilities are rarely known in detail. Most of the time we rely on having everything set on AUTO and just taking a snapshot, but all phones offer much more than that.


It is advisable to observe that the higher your optical zoom factor or lens focal length is, the more your camera will be prone to suffer from the slightest movement or instability. When creating closeup pictures, it is good to have an extremely steady hand but it is much better to capture images using tripods and stands. Professional cameras have the advantage of high variety of lens systems that are tailored to any photo, from closeups to long distance or telephoto lenses. They can also be used on different cameras, which means if the camera has the same mounting system it can be easily used on your new one. For instance, these optical systems can have polarizers and lens hoods which improve capturing abilities in intense sunlight.
=== The right image format ===
It may seem that operating a smartphone is straightforward in this respect, just select the highest resolution in MP or megapixels. However, the best choice is far from that. As manufacturers got into a stiff competition, they tried to differentiate through less than respectable means. One such trick was to showcase a much exaggerated claim of sensor resolution. A normal approach would be, for instance, to show the real sensor resolution instead of the interpolated one. You simply cannot have a 64MP sensor in a midrange phone, when a professional camera, even at the high-end, has around 40MP.


<code>''Get used to different lenses and zoom factors, but avoid ever using digital zoom or higher than optical zoom magnifications while taking pictures, to avoid reducing image clarity. Use tripods and stands to have steady shots at closeup captures.''</code>
What will you achieve by using the default option of a very high resolution? As it seems, there are some minor issues. The highest resolution image does not show necessarily more detail, on close inspection, and may exhibit whitish fringes near the edges of objects. This is due to heavy contrast enhancing processing that leaves such artifacts, reaching an image that is not better from a lower resolution one while it occupies more storage space and makes editing slower.


== Smartphone cameras ==
The best approach is to evaluate, separately, each resolution and format, on the same scene and subject, to determine which one works best. A common approach is to notice the format and resolution. Let's say at the 4:3 aspect ratio you have 64MP and 9268x6936 resolution, while at 3:4 aspect ratio you get and 16MP and 4624x3468 resolution. As a rule o thumb, the maximum resolution is never the actual sensor output and at lower resolutions the camera has a reduced risk of post-processing artifacts. Moving further up the options list, the so-called full resolution has a 4:2 format and is 4624x2084 and while the 16:9 one is 4624x2604.
Smartphones are easily the most versatile devices. It seems that everything is obvious yet there are a lot of untapped possibilities. True photo abilities are rarely known in detail. Most of the time we rely on having everything set on AUTO and just taking a snapshot, but all phones offer much more than that.
 
In this vast array of possibilities you cannot know which format is the best unless you take photos in daylight, preferably with sun-rays that are occluded by some obstacles yet shine through other areas. If there areas where the light shine brightly are under-saturated and the whole picture has little detail, you may need to select a broader image format, such as 4:2 instead of the typical 4:3 to have enough hinting on an overexposed picture and adjust accordingly. If the image has closer vertical and horizontal resolution there may be less of chance to see how far the light that affects your scene is coming from the unused sides of the sensor. This issue is much more common as you may expect while it also seems elusive, as what you don't see in the picture actually affects your end results.
 
<code>''Understand what formats and resolution capability your smartphone camera exposes and make extensive tests in scenes that have intense light as well as relatively dim areas Try exactly the same framing on different image formats and notice which one looks better.''</code>
 
===Wide or narrow angle shots===
 
With a smartphone camera you have the advantage of extensive customization and obvious, quick results but you do not have the best optics system. This is why you need to be experienced in choosing the right configuration for the task and leave some settings, that you know of, only for specific circumstances.
 
Although it is counterintuitive, I generally suggest not pursuing neither a wider angle nor a narrow angle format, but be highly flexible in your approach. If you generally have less of an issue with scenes that show overexposure in parts of them, you can freely use a narrower angle format or a tight image format such as 4:3, while if you notice poor overall image quality you may have to switch to a wider format such as 4:2.
 
<code>''The optics of your camera are the major limitation and you need to take into account many aspects. Experiment extensively with different setups before attempting a shot at a specific time of day or in a specific situation that you are not familiar with. It is always better to repeat annoyingly a process than to fail it altogether.''</code>


=== Camera applications ===
=== Camera applications ===
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However, if you want to experience with a different application and see how it suits you, the best replacement I found and tested for many years was OpenCamera, an open-source versatile camera application that is, obviously, free of charge and well enough behaved to be on par or even above typical commercial software.
However, if you want to experience with a different application and see how it suits you, the best replacement I found and tested for many years was OpenCamera, an open-source versatile camera application that is, obviously, free of charge and well enough behaved to be on par or even above typical commercial software.
<code>''While default camera application on smartphones may not be to your liking, it is recommended to get used to them. Definitely better overall results are difficult to achieve even with dedicated applications.''</code>


=== Different operation modes ===
=== Different operation modes ===
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<code>''Experiment with adjusting focus and brightness on various parts of the scene you intend to capture. It is the fastest way to end up with the best photos!''</code>
<code>''Experiment with adjusting focus and brightness on various parts of the scene you intend to capture. It is the fastest way to end up with the best photos!''</code>
=== ISO Modes ===
The ISO mode indicates the sensibility of your camera that is preset to account for specific lighting conditions. You use high ISO modes when taking pictures in low lighting situations, as high as 20,000 and you use low ISO modes as 100 when taking photos in bright light conditions. This means that it applies various compensations along with increasing or decreasing the exposure time to end up with useful images. Most of the time, the camera you have either does not even present ISO values when self-adjusting exposure or present these values to you as an indication of its operating range.
In some particular cases, such as when you want to obtain a specific grainier look, you may artificially increase the ISO mode value, if your camera allows. Decreasing this value is not recommended as you end up with too dark pictures to be usable in most conditions. You may attempt an artistic effect on a bright direct sunlight, but it is debatable if this is worth. In the past, the ISO mode had a direct impact on image captures as specific photographic film formulation were used for typical outdoor use and others for indoor use.
<code>''Most of the time, you do not need to adjust the preset ISO mode. However I highly advise you to keep track of the current active preset in some lighting conditions to determine if you are operating beyond your usual camera optimal range.''</code>
=== Exposure time ===
All camera vary exposure time based on the scene assessments they make, but only professional cameras always expose this information, if set to do so. The exposure time can be altered by the user but it is best left as is, since successfully altering the value requires to involve changing the ISO mode, white balance and other settings. This is why you rarely need to alter the exposure time.
Exposure times can be as low as 1/100 seconds, or a hundredth of a second to one as high as 3 seconds. Low exposure are typical for highly bright scenes while low ones are typical for night shots, with even higher exposure times required for sky-gazing situations. Most of the time you will be somewhere in between with your values. No two cameras will behave the same in different lighting conditions and this is also the case for different accessories such as polarizing lenses or different lens systems that may be used on your professional camera.
<code>''If and when displayed, as is the case on professional cameras, the exposure time is another important hint about the camera operational conditions. In very low light situations the exposure time increases, noise and accuracy decreases, and observing the typical exposure time in different conditions can improve your shots.''</code>


=== HDR or High Dynamic Range ===
=== HDR or High Dynamic Range ===
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=== Macro mode ===
=== Macro mode ===


Some phones have a dedicated MACRO or extreme closeup mode, that operates at a distance between 2-5 centimeters from the camera. This context requires very bright lighting conditions so it is more suited to outdoor purposes. On professional and semi-professional cameras, the macro mode is, most of the time, suggested with a flower icon.
Some phones have a dedicated MACRO or extreme closeup mode, that operates at a distance between 2-5 centimeters from the main camera or a dedicated one in an array, in more modern products. This context requires very bright lighting conditions so it is more suited to outdoor purposes. On professional and semi-professional cameras, the macro mode is, most of the time, suggested with a flower icon.
 
Professional cameras do not have a macro mode and they rely on using lens systems with short focal lengths to allow the necessary emphasis and focusing requirements on such scenes. For instance, taking a macro shot may require a 15-18mm focal length or an even shorter one.


<code>''Macro most is best suited to natural environments, highlighting leafs and flower details, but it can also be used with certain ubiquitous objects from around us that may have a different meaning when pictured so close.''</code>
<code>''Macro most is best suited to natural environments, highlighting leafs and flower details, but it can also be used with certain ubiquitous objects from around us that may have a different meaning when pictured so close.''</code>
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While potentially appealing, panorama modes present many shortcomings due to limited abilities of phone camera lenses. Curvature aberrations are highly noticeable and lead to generally poor images. Any misalignment in successive photos or changes in light affect the final outcome. It is not recommended to use this mode except for practice purposes. With proper hinting on accurate camera positioning on subsequent shots, it can result in usable pictures that are, however, somewhat less spectacular than you may hope. For such situations, professional camera users have superangular lenses that are unavailable on other devices.
While potentially appealing, panorama modes present many shortcomings due to limited abilities of phone camera lenses. Curvature aberrations are highly noticeable and lead to generally poor images. Any misalignment in successive photos or changes in light affect the final outcome. It is not recommended to use this mode except for practice purposes. With proper hinting on accurate camera positioning on subsequent shots, it can result in usable pictures that are, however, somewhat less spectacular than you may hope. For such situations, professional camera users have superangular lenses that are unavailable on other devices.
<code>''In most situations, it is ill-advised to rely on panorama shot mode. It is good to know, however, through experimentation, what can be achieved.''</code>


=== Slow-motion and Burst Mode ===
=== Slow-motion and Burst Mode ===
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<code>''Use timed and burst shots sparingly, and preferably only when you have a tripod or stand that justifies such complex preparations or post-processing requirements.''</code>
<code>''Use timed and burst shots sparingly, and preferably only when you have a tripod or stand that justifies such complex preparations or post-processing requirements.''</code>
==Hinting information ==
All cameras can expose various information that is useful for persons that want to operate and learn more about the device. Information such as the current preset mode, flash activation, exposure time, ISO mode, estimated new shots available space.


=== Rule of Thirds ===
=== Rule of Thirds ===
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<code>''You should learn to be familiar as quickly as possible with the 9 square, or three columns, three rows guidelines, where something interesting happens at each interesection. All cameras can superimpose this grid on the screen, to give you hints on captures''</code>
<code>''You should learn to be familiar as quickly as possible with the 9 square, or three columns, three rows guidelines, where something interesting happens at each interesection. All cameras can superimpose this grid on the screen, to give you hints on captures''</code>
== Subjects==
=== Landscapes, trees, plants ===
Vast fields, forested areas, trees, shrubs and plants are easily the most inspiring scenes. Weather and seasons present many opportunities to capture them from a slightly different perspective every day, leading to endless photos with good potential. Showcasing nature to a world where most of the population leaves in urban spaces is inspiring and meaningful. Imaginative pictures focus on showing aspects that are often overlooked due to our routine. Plants and particularly flowers offer ample opportunities and have a strong impact, considering that some of them have a very short lifespan.
<code>''Mountainous areas have a particular attraction with their breathtaking sights and they offer many opportunities for photographers. However, insufficient detail brought by weather conditions or a camera that is not coping as well with light conditions can affect the quality of a resulting image.''</code>
=== Ponds, Rivers, Lakes, The Sea ===
Water surfaces always attract us, since most of our life is spent on the land. On vast waterways it is better to look for details that intervene in an otherwise perfect platitude than to simply think about capturing the endless water surface. Ripples, splashes can be emphasized when they are in the picture's focus and there is some variation obtained in this way. Natural or man-made presence, whether we consider animals, vegetation or ships and structures, can always result in interesting photos. Closeups and odd picturing angles can also liven up the composition.
=== Wild, Semi-feral, Domestic Animals ===
Humans enjoy to experience the wilderness while not being harmed by it. Many times, the same can be said about the wildlife as it thrives when human intervention is minimal. To be able to experience the wild it is important to be patient and well versed with accessories such as tripods and high-magnification, telescope lenses. The main takeaway is that you can rarely show good pictures of true wilderness with a simple smartphone. Its camera is way too limited in optical capabilities for the requirements of these environments. Very good semi-professional and particularly professional cameras are required to end up with good enough pictures. Even so, fast moving animals may still be difficult to capture.
Semi-feral animals are easily the most likely subjects to practice photography. As they are somewhat accustomed to the human presence, they frequently stay closer to humans and this results in shorter distances from the camera. It is more likely to reach good enough positions from which to capture such animals. In some cases, insects that are less likely to run or fly frequently can also be captured with less advanced cameras such as the ones found in smartphones. Unfortunately, as in other similar cases, it is possible to end up with many unusable photos due to camera and particularly focusing and framing limitations. I advise only experiments with such subjects on smartphones since they frequently do not end up as a steady source of good snapshots.
<code>''Animals are difficult to capture, particularly if they fear human presence. Unless they are stray or domestic, it is difficult to capture them at a shorter distance to elicit good results without complex lenses and tripods or camera stands'</code>
=== Individuals and Groups ===
The most likely encounters with photography is probably from capturing known and unknown individuals. Since people rarely travel very fast by themselves and are naturally closer to us, particularly in urban environments, there is a vast expanse for experimentation with cameras and trying to capture details in their attire and gestures. Groups may be slightly more difficult to cover properly, particularly when they act disorganized but even in these cases there is at least an individual or a couple of them than can showcase a difference that can be well emphasized in a specific part of the image.
It is advisable to know that less brighter environments, as in some stage performances, are very difficult to capture properly with smartphones. The insufficient performance of the optical system means that only a very small of the picture is occupied by the subject or subjects, leading to poor details that remain visible. At least semi-professional cameras are required for such scenarios. The larger the distance to the point of interest, as is the case in certain sport competitions, the less chance of capturing it with an inexpensive or readily-available camera.
<code>''Avoid capturing individuals or groups when light comes from behind, and look for light that falls from above or at a left or right angle, unless you really want dramatic efects, such as with downlights''</code>
=== Buildings ===
An ubiquitous presence in urban environments, buildings are plentiful and can be the subject of numerous pictures. However, unless the buildings themselves have architectural features that signify complexity, it is rarely possible to end up with attractive pictures. When architecture blends in the environment, as is the case of being surrounded by sparse vegetation or groups of people, a building stands out much more than in a deserted area. It is true that derelict or run-down buildings can also offer good opportunities, albeit their state will not elicit joyous reactions to viewers and may even be offensive.
Very tall or vast buildings may present difficulties for framing. Most inexpensive or general purpose cameras, as the ones used in smartphones, do not have the same optical compensations as professional cameras. This results in slight aberrations such as curvatures, that are more noticeable on such large subjects. With more modest cameras it is better to look for smaller areas of interest that are still able to overcome the apparent monotony. Reflective buildings, particularly office centers with large glass panels, may require experimentation in camera positioning to avoid glare, particularly on sunny days. Heritage or older buildings benefit a lot from shadows cast on them or having their features accentuated by other means such as reflections or temporary interventions.
<code>''Resist the temptation of filming the entire building, as it may bring no interest in the resulting picture. Prefer captures that emphasis certain features and avoid monotony. Different angled shots may offer more attraction.''</code>
=== Vehicles ===
While vehicles are an integrated part of our lives, they require more effort in creating meaningful pictures. Simply capturing a standing vehicle may not be enough. The age and state, placement, buildings and people to which it stands nearby create an interesting scene. Moving vehicles by themselves, whether they are cars, trucks, trains or ships are more difficult to capture the faster they travel. Good lighting conditions and steady camera positioning is required. Some vehicles may be placed to far away to be properly captured with a smartphone, as they lack the required optical magnification to end up with useful details in images.
<code>''Showing the vehicle in its natural environment, a less common presence of it or simply details of it are all valid ideas to exploit in photographs.''</code>
=== Machinery and Components ===
All sorts of equipment has been and is present around us, telling a past story or making us enjoy the present. As such objects are abundant, there are vast opportunities to focus the camera lens on features we frequently ignore or use without a second thought. Closeups and environments that present various devices and products in uncommon places offer very good chances of ending up with great photos. Due to us having a detached experience that frequently leaves our electronic or mechanical creations well sheltered, showing their internal components can also be insightful to the audience, in a way to showcase beauty, order or the opposite of it.
== Framing Ideas ==
Framing refers to the way in which a subject or centerpiece of a photo is part of the environment. Good framing ensures the subject is clearly visible but also that other sugestive details are present in the scene. Bad framing shows the subject in a context that is almost empty, finds the subject close to the limit of the picture or has other flaws that are readily obvious. Experiencing with hundreds, even thousands of photos as well as noticing what is appreciated by others in photos will offer a good understanding of framing techniques.
Try to make the best use of the rule of thirds. Having the focus on a good subject yet sorounding it with other details that are attractive ensures successful photos. Never consider that a subject by itself or something unexpected about him is enough. Photography has everything to do with composition and the way in which multiple elements, preferably of different types, human and natural, tell a compelling story. Photos that offer little enticement to write a story about, are not good photos.
<code>''Take many photos, delete the ones that are poor, practice the subjects and compositions that you like the best to define your own personal style.''</code>
=== Nature ===
Natural elements are able to, by themselves, tell a story. As many elements usually interact, it is not difficult to "cut" and "expose" a specific part of the world.
Vegetation can naturally be a focus of many photos. Forested areas or multiple layers of vegetation create a rich atmosphere. The focus should be on elements that are unusual, such as different colour foliage, an animal, an insect or anything else that is different. Good photos break the monotony and suggest interactions between at least two or three planes. If it is a landscape picture avoid having long areas that are geometrically similar, such as a river bank, trees and sky. Ensure that at a couple of these natural features are not symmetric or similar.
Closeups and macro photography can be very attractive. It is advisable to keep in mind that the large optical magnifications required for successful photos are unavailable to smartphones. Certain closeups can be created with care and patience. The most spectacular ones you may have seen of different websites require professional cameras and tripods to ensure steady, detailed shots.
Panoramic pictures are not recommended. Since they require specific lenses or composition techniques to compensate for the lack of such optical systems or multiple cameras, they tend to be less viable than aspiring photographers may expect. It should also be known that panoramic photographs most likely require specific software or support to ensure the display of these composited images. This means that effort spent on a technique for a particular way of presentation has to be made from scratch for a different one, as some procedures are specific to each implementation.
<code>''Light and shadows cast on the natural environment or the presence of other elements that break the monotony, such as buildings and humans, are highly recommended in the composition.''</code>
=== Urban Photography and Buildings ===
Framing whole buildings is generally difficult or does not bring meaningful details into view. With the sole exception of landmarks, most buildings have symmetries that make a photography's content highly predictable. This is the main reason why the focus is on specific architectural features, alterations or novel interventions. The presence of animals, people, or any other object that may interact or have a relationship with the building or its neighborhood are advisable, unless they are also relatively ordered and symmetric. In such situations, framing should focus on an area of interest that seems as diverse as possible, without being considered as random.
Any human settlement, from a village to a sprawling metropolis, offers opportunities to highlight its life. Individuals or groups liven up the streets, animals such as birds may suddenly appear in secluded or more visible areas, various works leave temporary or permanent marks on the way in which an urban or rural area looks and feels. While sometimes more monotonous, cities truly offer unique experiences due to the mix of buildings, lifestyle, vegetation and weather specificity. Rural areas can also suggest compelling stories if the scene does feature certain variability in building facades, placements or natural background. For aspiring photographers, urban photography is easier to follow and improve upon.
<code>''Making photographs as a habit may not result in a lot of useful captures but will certainly offer experience, confidence and ability for more complex tasks or even result in some compelling compositions by chance. Never underestimate your daily photo routine!''</code>
=== Individual and Group Photography ===
Events frequently take place and offer ample photo opportunities particularly in cities. Crowds can form around places of high interest in the downtown area. All of these offer ample opportunity to experiment with smaller and larger crowds photos. Goals established for these scene address the variety of people present or particular details that are visible on some of them. Pictures have to be taken quite fast and opportunities may sudden arise or disappear. Improving skills in these environments may help in other circumstances and many useful images may result for illustration purposes.
Individual photography is somewhat more difficult as it may require additional care in taking good pictures of still or moving persons, which creates its own set of challenges. Smaller, lighter cameras, such as ones on smartphones, are an advantage in such circumstances as they can be easily moved to attempt various snapshots. However, it is always important to avoid being intrusive and to show respect when capturing or using such images. Individuals may be placed in any environment. The focus may be on their outfits, accessories or gestures that may be helpful in suggesting a compelling story. Closeups can be had only for other features than facial ones as privacy has to be respected.
<code>''A special mention has to be made for "selfies", as they do not help as much to improve photography techniques and their quality is generally poorer than for standard photos. However, they may help in testing or improving personal style as well as having inspiration for other standard photos.''</code>
=== Parks and Vegetation Abundant Areas ===
Natural or man-made parks and places with vegetation are high attraction areas for people. The more varied the landscape is and particularly if the area offers height differences, can result in highly appreciated spots for photography. Depending on situation, deserted or lively areas have their own benefits and the environment may be enhanced or affected by their presence. This means that certain areas should be captured at different times of day and on different seasons to better gauge what kind of context is more suitable. Sometimes buildings may be obtrusive or better blend into the natural environment. Any good photography location has to be assessed separately and in multiple photos.
<code>''Any area with vegetation can become the centerpiece of successful photographs. The most successful ones may be to use framing techniques that avoid obvious presences in typical pictures of other photographers.''</code>


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